I can report it has a healthy underbelly. Lots of eat streets and even a proposition thrown in.

But it can be eyewateringly expensive. Two salads and two glasses of wine  = AU$125. Here is a AU$9,000 jacket.

Fortunately, the best hamburger in the world was reasonable

..and if you see any of these constantly running fountains around, drink from them! The sweetest coolest water you have ever tasted.