Singapore

This seemingly inaptly named True Blue Restaurant was a friend’s recommendation as the best Nonya in Singapore.

The Antique and Collectibles store-like entrance oozing tradition had us intrigued.

We were seated and not a lot happened for a while. A colourfully shirted waiter badged “Nazran” came and within a micro-second correctly guessed we knew not a thing about the cuisine. So he suggested : “Chicken with Black Nuts” and the “Special Salad” not on the menu. We added a safe “Beef Rendang” as backup.

The dishes arrived swiftly and Nazran was back to assist, ladling out what appeared to be chicken in brown tar.

Little spoons and instructions followed on how to get to the remaining goo hiding in the nuts.

The flavour? Hmm. Imagine if all the great chefs in the world got together and combined and subtly balanced all their best stocks, gravy, relishes, bouillon and sauces, then reduced it to an oily paste, then we are getting close to the depths here.

“Special salad” was something else too.

Now I know you are thinking, as I did, we have here a peanutty Gado-Gado or a zingy Thai Banana Blossom salad of some sort. Throw that away as this dish did my head in.

Sweet pineapple, turnip (for apple-crunch), cashews dipped in cinnamon, then everything else you see including a rich sauce. Hey is this a dessert or main course? “Why not both” as the little Mexican girl said. Not to sweet, not too salty and nice umami in perfect balance highlighting the skill that earn this place a Michelin Bib Gourmand, saying “It’s less like walking into a restaurant, more like falling into the warm embrace of a much loved family member.”

Can only agree with that last sentiment as Nazran helpfully guided our journey at all times. As it wasn’t too busy, Nazran took us on a tour of rooms covered in antiquities associated with the family that owns this restaurant. We couldn’t be more thankful.

We and our full bellies stumbled out into the street smack-bang in the middle of a mini street festival.